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Material required: 13/4 to 2 yd. of casement cotton, zephyr, or tobralco, 30 in. wide. At this stage a girl had better make a paper pattern representing half the garment instead of a quarter (fig. 1), as she would not be able to cut through more than two thicknesses of material.
Seams.—French seam would be easy and neat, and could be sewn with No. 30 cotton of contrasting color. (Advanced workers would, of course, machine stitch the seams in a color to match the garment.) Round the curved portion the seams should be rather narrow, to avoid puckering.
Bottom hem — About 11/2 or 2 in. deep. It will have to be eased or pleated in, as it is curved. Before beginning to fold the hem, fold the bottom of the garment with the side seams together, and examine the bottom curve. If it has a bad shape, owing to stretching of the seams, round it off smoothly, having first pinned the two sides together.
Sleev es.—Make hems about 1/2 in. deep, and decorate them to match the other hems.
Neck .—Lay a hem about 1/4 in. deep, or join on a crossway false hem 3/4 to 1 in. deep. All the hems may be decorated with a pattern in tacking stitch, or with some variety of chain or blanket stitch. To give variety of color, or to add to the length of the garment, all the hems might be finished with crossway false hems in the same or a contrasting color. In that case, all the hems would appear on the right side of the garment.
Opening.—If the pinafore is cut rather wide at the neck, it can be made without any opening. If an opening must be made, it should be cut down almost to the waist.
The simplest method of finishing an opening at this stage is by narrow tapering hems with a shaped strengthening tape and a loop and button fastening. This is most suitable for a back opening. For a front opening, Method B, described on pp. 58 and 59, may be used.
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